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The Rhine Gold is the first of the four operas that compose Richard
Wagner's Der Ring des Nibelungen. As well as a sacred legend, the
Rhine's gold washers did in fact extract up to 15 kilograms of gold dust
in the best years of the 19th century. But the Rhine's gold, proffered
so majestically to the guests of the Bellevue Rheinhotel, is also
embodied by a distinctive Art de Vivre, whose gastronomy, wine, art and
castles bear witness to unparalleled sophistication.
The Bellevue Rheinhotel was built in 1887 (and later refurbished in the
Art nouveau style in 1911) on the left bank of the Rhine on what is
without doubt one of the most romantic spots of the river that Schumann
so remarkably extolled. With over 40 castles along less than 65
kilometers of river bank, it is home to a concentration of stately
abodes that is unique in the world. The cruise line between Mainz and
Coblenz was so famed for its beauty that it ferried over one million
passengers in 1860. At the time, the cruise took several days,
explaining the luxury of the riverside hotels. The town of Boppard has
stood on the left bank of the Rhine for over two millennia. A few
kilometers upstream, the rock of Lorelei, which rises 120 meters above
the river, is renowned for its special echo. According to German
folklore, notably revived by poet Heinrich Heine, the alluring song of
the Lorelei maiden, rendered even more special by the rock's echo,
distracted sailors to such an extent that many vessels ran foul of the
gorge's treacherous waters: "She sings a song…with a peculiar, powerful
melody. It seizes upon the boatman in his small boat/with unrestrained
woe…"
Since its construction, the hotel's proud outline overlooks the cruise
ships, whose course is today carefully way marked. The property is as
unchanging as the Lorelei rock because it still belongs to the same
family and has retained many decorative details that continue to bind it
to its classical roots, among which a portrait gallery of four
generations who devoted their lives to the spot, a superb Steinway
concert piano, a wainscoted lift cage complete with a leather seat, a
profusion of marble floors and walls and countless pieces of period
furniture, etc. Boppard was the birthplace of Michael Thonet. The name
of this cabinetmaker, who invented curved wooden furniture, is not very
well known, but everyone has one day sat on his N°14 café chair, no
doubt the furniture world's first bestseller (45 million had been
manufactured by 1903) and one of Art nouveau's most emblematic
creations. The Bellevue Rheinhotel is home to many original pieces of
furniture by Michael Thonet, including a guestroom entirely furnished by
the great inventor and designer whose home can still be seen in Vienna.
Other superlative examples of the 19th century include white-painted
wrought-iron work whose intricate ornamentation adorns the terraces of
the restaurants overlooking the Rhine.
In summertime, the Bellevue Rheinhotel opens a restaurant beneath the
leafy trees that line the Rhine, called Le Jardin. Very few sounds
disturb this peaceful spot apart from the murmured voices of strollers
or the soft hum of passing cruisers. The Jardin, Bristol and Chopin
restaurants all pay tribute to the Rhine's outstanding cuisine and
wines. The hotel's exceptional wine cellar is also well worth a look if
you have time. Many of the guestrooms, opening onto little balconies
bathed in sunlight, command a view of the river. The guestrooms' and
hotel's fixtures and fittings are truly exemplary, illustrated by the
quality of the stunning spa decked in sumptuous gold and navy blue
ceramic work. Since 2002, the upper half of the Middle Rhine, in the
heart of which lies Boppard, is a Unesco World Heritage Site. This
classification bears witness to the organization’s wish to pay tribute
and continue to preserve this region for its natural beauty and historic
significance, exemplified by the thriving trade it encouraged between
the Mediterranean and Northern Europe. Such exchanges are also
illustrated by the frequent sightings of green lizards, natives of the
Mediterranean basin, on the hotel's dry stone walls, the presence of
which further confirms the valley's mild climate, in the same way as
does the iberis of Boppard, a delicate white and purple flower that
grows nowhere else on earth.
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