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52km (32 miles) S of Ferrara, 151km (94 miles) SW of Venice, 378km (234
miles) N of Rome
The manager of a hotel in Bologna once lamented to us: "The Americans!
They spend a week in Florence, a week in Venice. Why not 6 days in
Florence, 6 days in Venice, and 2 days in Bologna?" That's a good
question.
Bologna is one of the most overlooked gems in Italy; we've found empty
room after empty room here in summer, when the hotels in Venice and
Florence were packed tight. It's true that Bologna boasts no Uffizi or
Doge's Palace, but it does offer a beautiful city that's one of the most
architecturally unified in Europe -- a panorama of sienna-colored
buildings, marbled sidewalks, and porticos. After fighting the crowds in
Rome, Florence, and Venice, you might enjoy a few days away from the
tourist crush.
Bologna's rise as a commercial power was ensured by its strategic
location between Florence and Venice. And its university, the oldest in
Europe (founded 1088), has long generated a lively interest in art and
culture. It features the nation's best medical school, as well as one of
its top business schools. The bars, cafes, and squares fill up with
students, and an eclectic mix of concerts, art exhibits, and ballet and
theater performances is always on offer.
Perhaps because the student population is so large, Bologna is a center
of great tolerance, with the national gay alliance and several student
organizations making their headquarters here. Politically, communism and
socialism figure prominently in the voter profile, which could be why
the region has been largely unscathed by the scandal and corruption of
neighboring precincts, where blatant capitalism has led to
Mafia-corrupted activity.
Bologna is also Italy's gastronomic capital. Gourmets flock here to
sample the cuisine: the pastas (tortellini, tagliatelle, lasagna verde),
the meat and poultry specialties (zampone, veal cutlet bolognese, tender
turkey breasts in sauce supreme), and the mortadella, Bologna's
incomparable sausage, as distant a cousin to American-style bologna as
porterhouse is to the hot dog.
The city seems to take a vacation in August, becoming virtually dead.
You'll notice signs proclaiming CHIUSO (closed) almost everywhere you
look. |
