|
182km (113 miles) S of Messina, 87km (54 miles) S of Catania, 330km (205
miles) SE of Palermo, 256km (159 miles) E of Agrigento
Of all the Greek cities of antiquity that flourished on the coast of
Sicily, Syracuse (Siracusa) was the most important, a formidable
competitor of Athens. In its heyday, it dared take on Carthage and even
Rome.
Colonists from Corinth founded Syracuse on the Ionian Sea in about 735
B.C. Much of its history was linked to despots, beginning in 485 B.C.
with Gelon, the tyrant of Gela, who subdued the Carthaginians at Himera.
Syracuse came under attack from Athens in 415 B.C., but the main
Athenian fleet was destroyed and the soldiers on the mainland were
captured. They were herded into the Latomia di Cappuccini at Piazza
Cappuccini, a stone quarry. The "jail," from which there was no escape,
was particularly horrid -- the defeated soldiers weren't given food and,
packed together like cattle, they were left to die slowly.
Dionysius I was one of the greatest despots, reigning over the city
during its greatest glory in the 4th century B.C., when it extended its
influence as a sea power. But in A.D. 212, the city fell to the Romans
under Marcellus, who sacked its riches. In that attack, Syracuse lost
its most famous son, the Greek physicist/mathematician Archimedes, who
was slain in his study by a Roman soldier.
Although the ruins of Syracuse will be one of the highlights of your
trip to Sicily, the city itself has been in a millennia-long decline.
Today, it's a blend of often unattractive modern development (with
supermarkets and high-rises sprouting along speedways) and the ruins of
its former glory.
A lot of what you'll want to see is on the island of Ortygia, which is
filled with not only ancient ruins but also crafts shops and boutiques.
From the mainland, Corso Umberto goes to the Ponte Nuova, which leads to
the island. Parking is a serious problem on Ortygia, so if you drive,
leave your car in one of the garages near the bridge and then walk over
and explore the island on foot. Allow yourself at least 2 hours to
explore, plus another hour to shop along the narrow streets. You'll also
want to sit on Piazza del Duomo, off Via Cavour -- one of the most
elegant squares in Sicily.
The ancient sites are a good half-hour's walk back inland from Ortygia,
past a fairly forgettable shopping strip, so you might want to take a
cab (they're easily found at all the sites). You'll find buses on
Ortygia at Piazza Pancali/Largo XXV Luglio. The harbor is lined with
18th- and 19th-century town houses.
Syracuse is a cauldron in summer. Do as the locals do and head for the
sea. The finest beach is about 19km (12 miles) away at Fontane Bianche;
bus nos. 21 and 22 leave from the Syracuse post office, Piazza delle
Poste 15. If you're driving, Fontane Bianche lies to the south of the
city (it's signposted); take SS115 to reach it. The same buses will take
you to Lido Arenella, only 8km (5 miles) away but not as good a beach. |
